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FIND ALAGNA |
FINE FOOD IN ALAGNA WITH SKI MONTEROSA
Many winter holidays are synonymous with the consumption of various mountain drinks: the most well-known après-ski beverage being ‘vin-chaud’, or ‘glühwein’. The infamous Ramazotti is another popular potion. Alagna is nestled comfortably in the Piemonte region, which many connoisseurs agree produces some of the finest reds in the world. We recommend starting your evening sampling some of Fabio's collection, under the magnificently high-ceilinged dining room of the Hotel Monterosa. In the kitchen, Giorgio and Emanuela will prepare a selection of fresh, locally produced delicacies (see photo) to match your wines. Following this, make your way (carefully) down the road to the Vineria Bacher, home to a selection of no less than 5,000 bottles of wine. Be sure to try the Gattinara. |
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The many tiny villages in the Valsesia valley each offer their own secrets and beauty. For the quieter drinker, we'll take you to Mario's in the nearby Riva Val Dobbia: a cosy venue but it can be very lively at weekends.
"May the hinges of our friendship never rust for the want of lubrication!!"
Mr & Mrs J. Fitzgibbon (Guests from Ski-Monterosa's 1st season)
A synopsis of the local bars, restaurants and mountain huts by Italian gastronomic critic, Terrence Rutterio.
IN ALAGNA VILLAGE
Restaurants
Ristorante Dir und Don
Excellent a la carte restaurant. Essential to book. Great food, wine and intimate ambience combined with excellent service make this a must-go place in Alagna.
Pizzeria Dir Und Don
Attached to above but separately booked. This serves quality pizza and gnocchi. Our bill for soup, pizza and 2 litres of Vino for 4 people was €68. Good value for money.
La Stube
The restaurant of the Hotel Monterosa, this unique venue has a traditional high-ceiling dating back to visits by Queen Margherita of Italy. A great selection of wine and good fresh food accompanied by the most obliging staff.
Ristorante Unione
Excellent food served in substantial portions by smiling patron. No wonder she is smiling as it's always packed to the rafters. Great place - must book. Husband looks like Donald Sutherland!
Montagna di Luce
Graziano is an excellent host; a 900m walk out of the village (or quick taxi ride), this is the authentic experience. Good food and atmosphere on the right night.
Ristorante Genzianella
Near the lifts uphill of the Church on the road to Casa Pratti. This dining room appears a bit Austro-Hotelish but it grows on you. Excellent table d'hote with massive portions including salad bar. Good staff. A good banker if not able to access Dir und Don, the Unione or the Montagna di Luce. Book or call in at lunch.
Ristorante Fum Diss
This is a FUN place to go to. It's a massive steep walk up from the village. All but mountain goats therefore should book a taxi. However, walking down in the moonlight and stars can even turn an old man's fancy to...The food is great, if extremely rustic, and is delivered with dignity and aplomb by Giovanni (Joe!) Drink Gattinara Red and afterwards ask Joe to prepare a Grolla! Stagger down hill.
Ristorante Cristallo
Situated in the prestigious Hotel Cristallo, the menu offers suprisingly good value with quite an international choice of dishes as well as a few local numbers. Definitely worth an evening.
Bars
Vineria An Bacher
My number one venue, an eclectic bar full of locals and characters. Run by phlegmatic Sergio and his sister. A great atmosphere, fair selection of beer but a tremendous choice of over 5,000 bottles of wine! All rounds of drinks are served with substantial nibbles. Good music, should appeal to all tastes. Cracking Place!
The Sunday Times,
November 6, 2005: "Alagna is a little-known haven for off-piste skiing. In the one-street village lies a wonderful wine bar [Vineria Bacher], home of the longest list of Italian Wines I've ever seen, at prices that don't break the bank. A splendid plate of antipasti accompanies the order and, if you're really lucky, you may be serenaded by the local choir returning after practice. A great way to finish a day of arduous skiing, or to while away the hours between dinner and bed."
Café delle Guide
A close second, this is a small intimate bar below the Hotel Monterosa is the focal point for apres-skiers. If full in the evening you can spill out onto the "terrazzo" under the gas heaters. Good place to chill out.
Café del Centro
Very old bar, part of a 19th Century mill. Dark and possibly foreboding but may contain a number of 'real' locals. Family run but best to drink red wine rather than beer. Location; t is of course, very central.
Canosta
The latest addition to Alagna's small selection of bars - has a bit of a "trendy wine-bar" feel...yet to really attract the masses.
Palazzetto
Situated near the market square. Sports bar with pool table, table football etc. A standard, unattractive European bar but if you have the urge to indulge in bar sports it may provide a different alternative to the other, more traditional bars in Alagna.
Fum Diss
Small bar attached to a Trattoria. Useful to pop in for a 'swifty' on the way down from the top to the village providing the ski run is in fair condition. Friendly staff.
Bar Unione
Part of the Ristorante but there are bar stools and the general atmosphere is congenial.
The Titsch Bar
Cocktail bar at the Hotel Cristallo for smoothies!
ON THE MOUNTAIN (Combination of huts/restaurants & bars)
Restaurant Soussun
THE mountain restuarant. This incredibly atmospheric restaurant (with bedrooms upstairs) is situated deep in the forest on the far side of the Monterosa region. I highly recommend an on-piste guide to help find it and navigate you back to Alagna in good time before the lifts close (or you'll be stuck with a long/expensive taxi journey back round to Alagna).
Restaurant Morgenrot
Situated just above Gressoney, this is one of my top mountain restaurants. It has lots of character, good food so be sure to have your guide book.
Rifugio Grande Halte
Situated a hundred or so metres below the mid Station of Alagna, this is a real favourite for lunch. Amazing views and good food but be aware it is on the last run down to the village.
Cafe Alpenstop
Run by the same couple as the Hotel Cristallo, the Alpenstop is a fairly basic but fantastically located cafe just below the mid station in Alagna. Excellent polenta and sausage.
Bar/Ristorante Schoppf
Situated on the last run down to Alagna and run by the bluest eyes in the Northern hemisphere, this is the best place to stop at the end of the day to commence the apres-ski activities.
Punta Indren (alt. 3,250m)
Fantastic must-go place. Entirely reliant on stunning views. Worth going to even if you intend not to ski back but take the antiquated cable car (maybe better to ski down!) On a good day, take your camera and prepare yourself for the 'wow' factor.
Rifugio Lys (alt. 2,200m)
On the way down just above the lift station which divides - one way up to Alagna and the other down to Gressoney - great spot, both indoors (charming) and outdoors (even with small children's playground!). Good traditional food and perfect meeting place.
Rifugio Gabiet (alt. 2,375m)
From Lys, pass by the bubble lifts and take pana lift. Overlooking frozen lake, this has a very popular sunny terrazzo. Indoors it's busy and bustling. The food is excellent and would be a very good place for lunch. May be worth booking.
Rifugio La Baita (alt. 1,945m)
200 metres below Pianalunga lift toward Alagna; you can ski down to this or walk down (a complementary skidoo/rattrak takes you back). If conditions allow, it is possible to ski back to the village via Fum Djss. The food here is rustic and basic but it is a charming stopover for a small lunch/snack/drink.
Rifugio Guglielmina (alt. 2,880m)
This is approached off-piste but sign-posted from the Passo Salati on Alagna side. This is another stunning Rifugio (particularly good late afternoon with the sun setting). Very basic but interesting rustic food. If you linger too long, B&B and evening meal is available for €40 (no heating or hot water!) - well worth roughing!